Published for Blouin Artinfo
Maria Grazia Chiuri presents her first cruise collection for Dior, in the middle of Mother Nature aptly living up to the theme of the collection on May 11, 2017. The show was held on a super-remote mountaintop, in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve, in Calabasas, California.
The designer dug deep into Dior’s archive for muses starting with the Ovale line designed by Christian Dior in 1951, whose form alluded to primitive female depictions such as the Venus of Willendorf. Dior’s forever love for heritage and reinventing the past lead Chiuri to come to with this 2018 Resort collection inspired by the cave paintings and bringing fresh vitality to femininity.
Her idea of infusing the past, wild and ancient femininity with shamanic intuition that celebrates instinctive spirit and today’s state of the art.
This collection draws direct inspiration from Wolves painted in the prehistoric cave paintings and some modern day inspiration from the work of American painter Georgia O’Keeffe and feminist shamanic healer Vicki Noble, infusing new life into Monsieur Dior’s beloved art of divination.
The collection has more than one influences, “For me, I found it close to L.A. You think L.A. and you think Hollywood, Oscars, the red carpet, but honestly I feel people love this place because you feel in contact with the natural elements” says Maria Grazia Chiuri for the Dior sense of design.
These profound prints were placed onto silk jacquards and rich textured fabrics. At some places, these prints were made into sequined embroideries in earthy shades. The entire collection Proportions and lengths are adjusted to a contemporary landscape in which sport mixes with haute couture and tradition becomes ornamental abstraction.
Other than the primitive prints, the dresses flowed long with breezy breezy silhouettes. The color palette was mostly golden ocher contrasts with blacks along with military greens, brick reds and the classic white.
The collecton had a very tasteful muted bohemian vibe. The color tones kept earthy, but the details were chunky fringes, human patterns and colorful feathered dresses. A very prominent use of robes and long jackets over dresses was showcased along leather boots.
The designer wonderfully put across the importance of contemporary essence in her designs to resonate well with the women today. In terms of keeping up with today’s scenarios, an inevitable touch of luxe sport spirit was evident in the collection along immense feminity.
“If you feel too much of the history, you get stuck in a box.”