His or Her ?

The gender norms in the realm of fashion are disappearing faster than ever. Driving the shift is arguably contemporary open-mindedness that encourages gender fluidity.

The world today seems an appropriate moment to express oneself and push boundaries. If not now then when ?

What do you think, does it add on to the cosmic chaos, simply voices it or maybe helps resolve it ?

 

This trend is not going away!

The trend came in like the new cool school kid, you hate him but you want to be friends with him. Third season in a row, the extra lo..ong sleeves have made a room for itself in the fashion realm, passing the threshold of a fad and becoming a full swing of a major trend.

These unrealistically long sleeves are very extra, just what one would want in today’s chaos. Also called Vetemens sleeve, this seems to be a favorite trend for designers to express varied emotions. This summer saw the long sleeve in all possible ways; Loewe’s extra bell, Chanel’s all over frills and Dior’s tunneled cuffs.

Though this trend has flooded the ramp, the consumers are yet to decode its practical day-to-day consumption.

Christian Dior Resort 2018

Published for Blouin Artinfo

May 2017

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Campaign for Dior Resort 2018

Maria Grazia Chiuri presents her first cruise collection for Dior, in the middle of Mother Nature aptly living up to the theme of the collection on May 11, 2017. The show was held on a super-remote mountaintop, in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve, in Calabasas, California.

The designer dug deep into Dior’s archive for muses starting with the Ovale line designed by Christian Dior in 1951, whose form alluded to primitive female depictions such as the Venus of Willendorf. Dior’s forever love for heritage and reinventing the past lead Chiuri to come to with this 2018 Resort collection inspired by the cave paintings and bringing fresh vitality to femininity.

Her idea of infusing the past, wild and ancient femininity with shamanic intuition that celebrates instinctive spirit and today’s state of the art.

This collection draws direct inspiration from Wolves painted in the prehistoric cave paintings and some modern day inspiration from the work of American painter Georgia O’Keeffe and feminist shamanic healer Vicki Noble, infusing new life into Monsieur Dior’s beloved art of divination.

The collection has more than one influences, “For me, I found it close to L.A. You think L.A. and you think Hollywood, Oscars, the red carpet, but honestly I feel people love this place because you feel in contact with the natural elements” says Maria Grazia Chiuri for the Dior sense of design.

These profound prints were placed onto silk jacquards and rich textured fabrics. At some places, these prints were made into sequined embroideries in earthy shades.  The entire collection Proportions and lengths are adjusted to a contemporary landscape in which sport mixes with haute couture and tradition becomes ornamental abstraction.

Other than the primitive prints, the dresses flowed long with breezy breezy silhouettes. The color palette was mostly golden ocher contrasts with blacks along with military greens, brick reds and the classic white.

The collecton had a very tasteful muted bohemian vibe. The color tones kept earthy, but the details were chunky fringes, human patterns and colorful feathered dresses. A very prominent use of robes and long jackets over dresses was showcased along leather boots.

The designer wonderfully put across the importance of contemporary essence in her designs to resonate well with the women today. In terms of keeping up with today’s scenarios, an inevitable touch of luxe sport spirit was evident in the collection along immense feminity.

“If you feel too much of the history, you get stuck in a box.”

 

Louis Vuitton Cruise 2018, Kyoto

Published for Bluin Artinfo

May 2017

Louis Vuitton Cruise 2018, Kyoto
Looks from Louis Vuitton Cruise 2018, Kyoto

Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton Creative Director for Women’s Collections, presented his fourth Cruise collection for the house on May 14, 2017 at the Miho Museum in Kyoto, Japan. He fused fashion, nature and architecture expressing the spirit of travel and being on the road, the 2018 Cruise Collection showcases the designer’s love affair with Japan.

“It was one of the first places I travelled to when I was seeking inspiration, some twenty years ago, and I’ve been a regular visitor ever since. (The Collection is a) culmination of what Japan has given to me for a very long time,” says Nicolas.

The unique location chosen by the designer as he believes that it encapsulates Japan’s “fusion of urban and natural.” Miho Museum is located on mountain one hour outside of Kyoto. The museum is revealed through a spectacular metal tunnel and a futuristic suspension bridge, designed in 1997 by I.M.Pei.

The cruise collection had various prominent Japanese influences throughout, majorly paying tribute to designer Kansai Yamamoto. Yamamoto created icons, symbols, and characters for the accessories, which featured Kabuki mask-like designs. These inspirations are translated in the Cruise collection in accessories, prints and make-up. The models wore dramatic eyebrows, exaggerated winged eyeliner, and colorful face as the Kabuki masks.

The garments had a blend of classic motifs native to Japan, inked landscapes, ceremonial dress, samurai clothing, the keikogi robe-like outfit worn for martial arts, as well as cinematic influences from Japanese directors Akira Kurosawa and Takeshi Kitano. There were pantsuits and tunics featuring Hokusai-like prints. Leather sweaters reminded one of the Japanese warriors.

The collection along depicted the culture of Japan also evoked the question of evolution.

 

Gucci Cruise 2018, Florence

Published for Blouin Artinfo

May 2017

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Looks from Gucci Cruise 2018

The grand Gucci Cruise 2018, was held in Florence at the Palatina Gallery at Palazzo Pitti on May 29, 2017. The venue was an apt choice for the kind of muse Alessandro Michele had while putting together this collection.

The collection was everything Renaissance, bought in the modern world with absolutely no rules. Right from the paintings hung on the walls to the embroidery on the chairs helped to build up the mood for what followed.

The Cruise line offered some women’s gowns and fur coats along dresses, skirt and shorts. The men’s pieces were injected with graphics, slogans and embroidered details if not quilted.

There were prints, paired with prints worn under a layer of some more prints. Leopard-spot turbans, head scarves, bandeaux, nerdy tinted spectacles, glittery-framed sunglasses, medieval hairpieces and loads of bling. Pearls were woven into flowing tresses and at an instance adorned over the face. Embellished, glittery monogrammed GG tights and socks that went along many looks.

The major highlight of the show was the sparkling “GUCCY” typo on one of the model’s chest.  This trans-seasonal collection urged the viewer to unleash all norms of fashion. Slogans like “GUCCIFY” or “GUCCIFICATION” made sure this collection was like the one that was showcased never before.

The models had minimal makeup on with flushed cheeks and glistening eye-lids. The collection was an interesting mix of the renaissance art and 21st century fashion.

Everything about this Cruise collection was “GUCCIFIED” right from the personal invites, to the grand venue to the glorious collection.

 

Chanel Resort 2018 : “The Modernity of Antiquity”

Published for Blouin Artinfo

May 2017

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“The criteria of beauty in ancient, then classical, Greece still hold true. There have never been more beautiful representations of women. Or more beautiful columns. The entire Renaissance, in fact, was based on Antiquity. It is really about the youth of the world in all its power and unpredictability.” Karl Lagerfeld.

This year, on May 3 2017, the French designer got the beauty of Greece to the city of Paris. He wonderfully recreated the Temple of Poseidon at the Grand Palais, making a not only a grand set, but presenting perfection with ruined pillars and yellow-sun-like lightning.

“I see Greece as the origin of beauty and culture.”

The collection was most modern-ly-antique. It mirrored the Greek spirit in every possible way. A subtle pastel theme walked till the end, with lots of gold and contemporary grandeur. Tweed tunics, frayed edges, pleated skirts, coarse knits, which lots of embellishments and accessories.

The Greek aesthetic was transported to this era with one-shouldered toga dresses, tweed tunics with rope belts, leather jackets paired with skirts, gold coin buttons, jewelled hair clips and a breath-taking range of sunglasses adorned with some more gold.

White dresses with fitted waists embroidered with sequins to create a marble effect were sent down the ramp followed by tweed dresses with zippers frayed hems.

The make-up was kept natural with almost no visible lip colour. The focus was on the eye done in an unmistakable Mediterranean shape with a liner.

We might go on and on about the collection, but the real show stealers were the magnificent gladiator sandals in vibrant yellow, blue and gold shades. Outlining the true essence of the theme, these Greek gladiators were modernised with column heels and paired with almost all the outfits.

The designer wrapped up the show in a delightful manner, walking the runway with Hudson Kroenig, his 8-year-old grandson.

 

Coded Couture or an exaggerated gig?

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Google is partnering with H&M digital fashion house Ivyrevel, to serve customised dresses to the consumers with customised data in form design details.

“It’s such an exiting moment. We’re about to change the fashion industry by bringing the customer’s personality into the design process through data technology,” said Aleksandar Subosic, co-founder of Ivyrevel.

This idea is to be executed in form of an Android app that will collect the user’s data like location, weather and physical activity in order to know likings and learn about user habits. Based on these leads and Awareness API, the app will recommend a dress that users can buy.

Though the project is at alpha stage and is being tested by fashion influencers. It will be made available for everybody by later this year.

This association aims to “bring couture into the digital age” by utilizing our data to create dress, which absolutely sounds enthralling.

 

But how many of us “non-fashion influencers” would like to shed money on coded couture. And for ONCE, assuming that we did, would it be to our recurring interest?

Hoping that there is more to the project than banking on the millennials love for personalisation and uniqueness.

 

 

Ghost Restaurants

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Sorry readers, this isn’t what you think this is!

A new business model in the food industry, which shows you a restaurant online, also delivers fast and yummy food, but in reality there isn’t any.

To the extent of staying true to this spooky-sounding-tasting-yummy concept, these restaurants might even have a mouth-watering Instagram feed.

These kitchens supply and deliver food either through their own online avatar or to a multi cuisine restaurant that technically doesn’t exist.

Green Summit found by Peter Schatzberg is one of the leaders of this concept in the US. The company employs around 50 chefs between 2 commissary kitchens in NYC to operate eight restaurant brands in, without a single dining room.

Leafage and Butcher Block, are two of its non-existent eateries delivering in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Chicago.

Another company Good Uncle  is contributing to the trend with its own commissary kitchens.

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This model cuts down the cost significantly, saves on over heads but most importantly extends the liberty of offering multiple cuisines from a single kitchen set up.

As for the consumer the restaurant is certainly relevant as long as it offers FOOD and you can follow its feed online. Banking on the millennial approach, ordering food on smartphones will be hassle free making this latest trend resonate very well.

Prevalent in India since many years, these virtual kitchens have been feeding masses.

Sounds like the India Tiffin culture has dressed up in an English suite and has decided to conquer the New World.

 

Why do we need last year’s Lifestyle trend more than ever?!

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Lifestyle Trend 2017

Lagom, “enough, sufficient, adequate, just right” is the latest buzz word ready to take over as the lifestyle trend of the year 2017. This is second time in a row that a phonetically taxing Scandinavian ethic is directing the world to the art of living life. (Last year it was Hygge)

 

In the past six months the word ‘lagom’ has seen a huge rise on Google searches and has been tweeted about 13,500 times.

 

Post a remarkable 2016, in times of such global economic uncertainty, Lagom seems to be an apt pseudo-philosophical way of life. This trend accentuates frugal living, intensifying the significance of recycling in our lives. An idea that we can strike a healthy balance with the world around us without having to make extreme changes, and without denying ourselves anything.

 

This trend was proposed by Swedish furniture giant, IKEA which often drives global design directions. They started a three year long initiative called ‘Live Lagom’ helping people know “how to make sustainable living easier, more affordable and attractive.”

Synonymously the Pantone color of the year 2017 “Greenery” also exemplifies the growing trend and shift towards sustainable living.

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Lifestyle Trend 2016

 

Though 2016 was all about Hygge – a new word added to the Oxford English Dictionary and a major contender for word of the year. This lifestyle trend has already had its moment all over world.

 

“Hygge” means cosiness.  Everything from cardigans, chocolates and candles that indulged you to feeling cosy was relevant.

 

Though what reached the world was more of Brygge (Britain marketed products using the Hygge trend).

 

Is it now time to find hygge in the lagom living?!

 

Though concept of suitability, nurturing environment and green initiatives have been prevalent for a while. It is now time to find contentment in doing the same. This might bring fundamental change the world is waiting for.

 

Let’s live it right!

 

 

 

 

 

Unrealistically Lo…ng!

Published for FFT

March, 2016

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The oversize trend has been on the rise for quite some time now. Ramps have been overrun with anti-fit clothing and designers have been obsessed with larger than life silhouettes. This trend has gained much attention, and done well for both women’s and menswear styles.

This trend has, in fact, been carried forward to this season as well, only to be re-invented with a new perspective. The sleeves have become Unrealistically LONG!

How long will it stay?

Like every other trend in fashion, this too has now reached its peak, and will eventually pass. The pendulum will once again swing away from volume. But, let’s not forget that this trend, like most others, has travelled a long way to reach this level of largeness, and it may be long before it comes around again in the way it exists today.

Anything could become a “thing”, when a lot of designers start believing it’s a “thing”. But have the designers gone too far with the trend just to satisfy the insatiable appetite for something new?

Indian designer Druv Kapur of DRVV also does not seem to believe that this trend is going too far and says, “I find it a little bit too involved with just fashion for that moment, as it serves no function whatsoever. The only thing it’s doing is reiterating the oversize trend.”

Aki Choklat, Chair & Associate Professor at Fashion Accessories Design, said, “It’s already so over-done this season that I would almost categorise it as a fad. I don’t think this would be a popular thing as I believe it has a little taste and smells like a quick trend.”

The trend was most certainly all over the ramp this Fall. Designer Shweta Kapur of 431-88 thinks, “This trend adds a touch of casualness to the outfit. In the Winters, it can be easily carried off with long sleeved sweaters to cover your wrists and in the summers, the sleeves become extra loose for airiness, and the cuffs of the shirt cut longer to protect the hands from the sun.”

Only the coming seasons can tell how practical or impractical the trend has turned out to be; but for now it surely is the most relevant one.

Where did it come from ?

This trend came to be know as Vetements sleeve in the fashion industry parlance.
“Its a trend specially for the young market, targeting teenagers and the tweeny market. Designer Vetements is probably the leader of the trend,” says Johannes Egler, Professor at Polimoda and Senior designer at Rosso35.

Vetements has undoubtedly injected some young energy and fresh direction to the sedate world of fashion. The brands Fall 2015 collection was a fair mix of classic boxy suit, blazers, bombers, and leather jackets, which had fabric that hung below the fingers and sometimes as long as the knees.

Raf Simons, in his first collection for his eponymous label, showed some dramatically oversize sweaters, but most notably the sleeves that dangled almost till the knees.

Budding Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy’s showed a slightly less exaggerated proportions on the jackets. But it was interesting to see how Thom Browne, Hood by Air and Rihanna’s FENTY x Puma came up with collections that gave us ways to style the sleeved garments we already owned in our wardrobes.

Though, it was seen on the ramp more than once, building up the ambiguity of the trend’s origin was Raf Simon’s press note for his collection, wherein he named Margiela as an inspiration. Martin Margiela, the label’s founder, caused a sensation with experiments in proportion back in the 1990s.

No matter how far the origin goes, what we do know for sure is that proportion is one of the most determining factors of a designer’s toolkit while striving for freshness. Shorten here and extend there, or tighten up to get a completely never-seen-before collection.

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Why did it become a ‘thing’?

We will be telling you nothing new if we were to begin with how the 90’s trend is coming back. What we would, however, be telling you is how these ultra-long sleeves relate to the era.

Sloppiness is the prime grunge determinant, it sure is a Declaration of Independence. Your body (read yourself) is hidden away in large unjudgmentable pieces of luxury.

Another reason is the rising touch of androgyny that is driving the silhouettes to be larger and more carefree. Oversize clothes are, in a way, a sign of how content one is — so carefree that you don’t need to dress up for anybody but yourself, anymore…